Tag Archives: NeoPixel

More Stealthburner Neopixel LED Problems

Posted 08 March 2026

I’m still having problems (see also this post) with the Neopixel LED string on my T1 (red) Stealthburner toolhead. It stops working, then I wiggle some wires on the toolhead and it starts working again – temporarily.

To start the troubleshooting process, I swapped just the front part of my two stealthburner toolheads. The T0 (grey) Neopixel installation works fine on the T1 (red) body, but the T1 (red) Neopixel installation does not work on the T0 (grey) body, indicating that the problem is isolated to the T1 (red) Neopixel installation.

In a previous post I described connecting the string to a Teensy 4.1 using an AdaFruit Neopixel test program, so I dug out the Teensy 4.1 and the 3-pin 2.0mm male JST plug adaptor from this post, and connected the Teensy to the T1 (red) Neopixel string by disconnecting the Neopixel JST connector from the ‘SBurner Fan Adaptor V1’ and then connecting it to the Teensy via the 3-pin male JST, as shown in the following photo:

With this setup, the Neopixel string worked perfectly, so the problem is either in the Fan Adaptor board connector, or something else upstream from that. When I swapped just the front parts, I essentially eliminated everything upstream of the Fan Adaptor boar, and by exercising the NeoPixel string via the 3-pin JST connector I eliminated everything downstream of the Fan Adaptor module, leaving just the module itself. Plugged T1 (red) back into its toolhead 8-pin connector and everything worked! Came back this morning and turned on the printer; now the T1 LED’s are dead again.

It looks like this is one of those intermittent issues that just don’t go away. At this point I suspect that the 8-pin inter-board connector is the real issue, and I’m not sure there is anything to be done about it. If this is in fact the case, then it is the female half on the Fan Adaptor board that is faulty, as the T0 (gray) toolhead front module works fine when plugged into the T1 (red) main body.

22 March 2026 Update:

Still having problems with my T1 toolhead LED string; sometimes it will turn on when the printer powers up, but mostly not. As before, the T0 toolhead LED string works fine on the T1 toolhead, but the T0 string won’t work on either one. After consulting with Grok some more, I began to suspect the problem was in the female connector half of the two-PCB board arrangement that connects the toolhead body to the part that contains the two fans and the LED string, so I ordered a new set from West 3D.

I was a more than a little miffed when I realized I had ordered the wrong part – this set of boards is for the CANbus umbilical configuration, but fortunately the ‘Fan Adaptor’ PCB (left-hand PCB in the above image) is identical in both versions. Unfortunately when I replaced the existing PCB with this one, the problem didn’t go away – bummer! At this point I had pretty much eliminated everything except possibly the LED string itself (although I have replaced it twice with no change in the symptoms. To reiterate the current situation:

I have two Stealthburner toolheads each consisting of a body containing the extruder mechanics and the RP2040 driver PCB, and a ‘front half’ containing two cooling fans, the LED string and a daughter board that connects to the RP2040 PCB via an 8-pin push-on connector. The T0 ‘front half’ is colored gray, and the T1 ‘front half’ is colored red.

  • The T0 (gray) front half LED string works fine when installed on either the T0 or T1 body, while the T1 (red) front half LED string doesn’t work when connected to either the T0 or T1 body. This eliminates the T1 body as the source of the problem
  • Replacing the T1 (red) front half ‘Fan Adaptor’ PCB with the above brand-new item from West 3D did not change the symptoms. T1(gray) front half still works on both toolhead bodies but the T1 (red) front half doesn’t work on either. This eliminates the PCB connector as the culprit, leaving only the T1 LED string.

As noted in previous posts on this subject, there have been some issues in the past with intermittent LED strings, caused by some combination of using 3.3V signals from the RP2040 on LED strings meant for 5V and potential ringing on the data line, and Ton/Toff timing variations among different makes of Neopixel chips.

After some more consultation with Grok, I decided I needed a way to determine how well (or poorly) a particular LED string operated over a range of Ton/Toff values. I asked Grok to produce an Arduino program targeting a 600MHz Teensy 4.1 microcontroller to determine the actual operable timing range for a connected Neopixel LED string. Here’s the program Grok came up with (including some tweaks I made to allow for user comment capture during ‘sweep’ mode):

And here is a photo of the hardware setup:

When I performed a ‘sweep’ of the above LED string, I got the following output:

According to Grok, this output shows a ‘good’ LED string, and sure ’nuff, when I re-installed this string into my T1(red) toolhead, darned if it didn’t work!

27 March 2026 Update:

It’s been several days now since I got my recalcitrant toolhead LED string working, and so far, so good. I have turned the printer on and off several times, and even made several prints (with T0 rather than T1, but both toolhead LED strings always light up when power is applied to the printer, and I have been able to exercise the T1 LED string using the printer control panel). In the meantime, based on Grok’s recommendation I ordered two more LED strings from Fabreeko, as they seem to have the gold standard reputation for Stealthburner LED strings. However, when they arrived, they looked identical to one I had gotten some time ago from Amazon as shown below

Cheap knock-offs from Amazon

and in fact had the same defect as the Amazon knockoffs – the GND and Data_In wires were reversed on the 3-pin JST. Not only that, but even after correcting the pin-reversal issue, they did not perform well (or even at all) when tested using Grok’s Tstart/Tstop sweep program. It was hard to avoid the suspicion that Fabreeko was simply buying their strings from Amazon and reselling them as their own. Needless to say I returned them for credit.

So, currently I have working NeoPixel strings on both T0 & T1 toolheads, but no backup if one fails (again), and no known-good ordering source. Perhaps Grok can guide me on this (although it was Grok that recommended Fabreeko).

All for now – stay tuned.

Frank

Stealthburner LED Problems

Posted 31 October 2025

I’ve been having a heck of a time getting the neopixel LED string working on one of my two Stealthburner toolheads (MissChanger mod). Sometimes it would work, sometimes it would not, and I wasn’t able to correlate the two conditions to anything I was doing. On several occasions it seemed to be correlated with whether or not the front piece (the one containing the LEDs) was securely fastened to the main toolhead body with the two (very) long and two short(er) screws. It seemed it worked when the screws were not in, and didn’t work when they were in and tightened down.

At first I was convinced that one or more LED wires was getting pinched between the two toolhead halves, and when I tightened down the mating screws, the circuit was interrupted. I even found evidence for this and fixed it – several times – but the intermittent behavior continued.

Some research by Grok turned up a LOT of talking about SB LED issues, which were mostly divided into two categories – one thread earlier this year talked about waveform timing issues, and the other thread talked about the fact that the rp2040 outputs 3.3V waveforms while the nominal voltage for the LED string is 5V.

In desperation, I decided to attach a short cable to the LED string connector pads on the Nitehawk PCB on the front half of the SB, thereby allowing me to directly monitor the actual waveform being transmitted to the LED string.

I was able to observe the ‘not working’ waveform once and then my troublesome SB refused to not work again, stubbornly continuing to light up no matter what I did. The waveform in the ‘not working’ condition looked more like triangular waves rather than rectangular indicating an output loading condition of some kind. Unfortunately, I was unable to capture the waveform on my DSO, so I can’t display it here. The ‘working’ waveform is shown below:

Toolhead mounted on the Voron printer, LED string working properly

In an earlier post I described the test jig I had created using an Arduino UNO. I could use it to connect directly to the LED string on the front half of the SB, and my troublesome LED string worked fine on the test jig. As Grok pointed out however, the Arduino output waveform went to 5V, not the 3.3V the actual hardware was providing, so the test jig might not be valid. So, I replaced the Arduino UNO with a Teensy 4.1, which does use 3.3V outputs, as shown here:

I added a potentiometer into the output circuit so I could slowly drop the output waveform down from 3.3V to see where the LED string stopped working. At 3.3V output it was solid, and this particular string still worked fine at 2.7V peak, as shown in following trace-grabs:

So, it appears that that at least my particular LED string works fine all the way down to 2.7V, so I don’t think the intermittent issues other users have been experiencing are due to the rp2040 having a 3.3V instead of 5V output. My current thinking is that the problems are more likely to be the timing issues discussed in this Klipper Github PR

01 November 2025 Update:

When all was said and done, I could no longer get the LED string on my troublesome toolhead to fail, so I wound up putting it back together and mounting it back on the printer. However, as insurance against a future Murphy attack, I left the external LED data line monitor cable intact, and hot-glued it into the intake cavity for the part cooling fan, as shone in the following photo:

Ugly, but it has a GREAT personality!